The past week has been pretty life changing and liberating to say the least. Last Sunday all 38 PCTs traveled to Dar for swearing in. We once again shacked up at the Mzimbazi center, which was a lot more fun this time because we could actually speak Kiswahili to the people who live and work there.
On Monday we had a meeting at PC HQ going over logistics and money matters while at site and on Tuesday we met our mkuu (aka Our new school’s principle/ head master). My mkuu is a really sweet guy. He was wicked excited to meet me. He was also super stoked to be receiving a PCV. After a very awkward conversation and group session with him we had a free afternoon, so I traveled into Dar with Glen and Enoch (fellow PCTs). It was nice to be able to walk around and see what Dar actually looks like because the last time we were locked up for five days. Overall the outing was a success for a few reasons: 1) We didn’t get robbed 2) We found a shop, kama (like), CVS that had air conditioning [Oh yeah, forgot to mention Dar was one big sweat ball, 89 degrees every day and humid) and ESPN on the tv. 3) I bought a really cool navy blue dress for swearing in and some beaded sandals. 4) We made it back to the center safely in a taxi. Later that night the ritual pumzikia session took place and then we headed to bed.
Wednesday morning and swear in day rolled around. We arrived at the US embassy at around 9:15ish, went through the hairball that was security and finally made it to our seats. The embassy, I thought, was a fitting, but also strange place to hold the ceremony because it seemed too much like being back in the states to me. The offices looks just like offices in the US and the building had all modern conveniences, aka a western toilet, sink and water fountain. Any who, the ceremony took place in the main hall of the embassy and the country director for PC, Andrea, spoke as well as Ambassador Lenhardt and Director General, Tanzania Institute of Education, Paul Mushi. Two of the PCTs from the class read a speech we had written and we all sang a kind of sappy song in Kiswahili. After we took our, oath (officially making us PCVs) and about a million group pictures we were welcomed onto the lawn of the embassy for cake, which was amazing, meat kabobs, samosas and sodas. Later in the day, around 5 or so, we rolled up to the Ambassador’s house for an early Thanksgiving dinner which was not quite like Mom’s, but still amazing. The Ambassador’s wife, Jackie, greeted us and was eagar to find out where we all hailed from in the states. As for dinner…. we had everything; pasta salads, salads, chicken (turkey is wicked expensive here), gravy, mashed potatoes, rolles, stuffing, cranberry sauce, corn bake, veggies, pumpkin pie, apple pie, brownies, cookies, ice tea, coffee and juice. Needless to say we left the Ambassador’s house completely stuffed. That night at the center many of us did not sleep because we had to be up and at the cars by about 3:45am. I think I slept for maybe 2 hours total.
The next morning we all said goodbye to each other in the pitch black and headed to the bus stand with other people who were going to our region. Saying good-bye to everyone was such a bazaar experience; we were put together for the past 2 months, we bonded over the most random, yet significant things and then we are suddenly separated from one another, two days travel for some, and have to live on our own and start all over again in a community of strangers. After arriving at the bus stand, our driver got into a bit of an argument with the man who was supposed to move our luggage to the correct bus. Actually, I wouldn’t really call it an argument; our driver held the man by the collar and was shouting at him. Honestly, not much fazes me after being in this country for the last 2 months, especially when I am half a sleep, but I was legitimately scared. After lugging our own bags to the bus, we boarded for what would be the most awkward 13 ½ hour bus ride of my life, but then again how many of those can I actually say I have ever been on? Just this one I suppose. The whole trip I sat next to my mkuu and because I didn’t sleep the night before the first 3 hours must have been pretty boring for him because I just slept. In case you were all wondering, this bus did stop to let us go to the bathroom, once literally in the bush and another time at a legitimate rest stop.
I arrived at my new home for the next 2 years in the pitch black, aka 7:30 pm. Boarding students from my school were there to welcome me and take my bags. Let me just say here how reassuring it is when you arrive at your new home in a strange place and you can’t even see what it looks like. My bags were brought to the mkuu’s house, which honestly at first made me nervous because I thought I was going to have to stay the night there, but it was only a brief stop to meet the other teachers at the school, his family and have some dinner. After the first meeting, my new colleagues dropped me off at my house. They showed me around and I unwrapped my mattress from the plastic and headed to bed. The next morning was like Christmas morning because I had a huge present to unwrap…. I opened my curtains to see what my new home looks like! The school is really cute. It is comprised of about 4 identical long buildings and is surrounded by a bunch of smaller teachers’ houses. The backdrop is green rolling hills that are home to pine and eucalyptus tress. About 7 villages, which all feed into my secondary school, surround the area. There are two small dukas (stores) in my village that sell the basic necessities, soap, soda, eggs, bread, kerosene, salt, sugar, flour and other random items. The next nearest town Ndaga has a daily market and is located about 3km from my site. Apart from the chickens that frequent my doorstep, I am very pleased with my site. I live smack in the middle of an agrarian society and as far as I can tell my neighbors are very nice and super welcoming (the girl next door gave me potatoes from her shamba (farm) for free). Hopefully, I will fit in even more once I get to work on my garden.
For all you who are wondering, I have electricity, but it turns on when ever Tanseco ( The CL&P of Tanzania) feels like it and a water source 10 feet from my house. I also have two bedrooms, a choo (toilet), shower room, storage room and kitchen.
Alright onward with the weeks events, the 1st day at site after being introduced to the school before it was closed for break by the Mkuu, I ventured to Mbeya, a larger city about an hour coaster ride from my site, for a PCV Thanksgiving / welcome to the region dinner. Even though it was my second Thanksgiving dinner it was still amazing. All the PVCs in the area brought something, we had everything from chicken (again), green bean casserole, stuffing, pumpkin dessert, bread, chili to cake, guac and chips and fried rice. Everyone in the region is super nice and they were really excited to see the newbies. The next morning I headed home and stopped by the market on the way to pick up some goods for the house; pots, buckets, baskets and other necessities. Sunday my Mkuu and another teacher from the school took their sons and me on a hike to Ngozi/ Crater Lake. The hike to the rim of the crater took us about 2 hours, but was well worth the long upward hike. The lake is absolutely beautiful and is surrounded by steep, heavily vegetated walls and was formed when Mt. Ngozi, a former volcano, blew its top. Yesterday was relatively uneventful. I did some laundry, P90x, spoke with a fundi about some furniture and a dresser and four village children took shelter in my house for a very awkward 30 minutes as it poured and hailed outside. This might be a good place to mention the climate of my site. Usually it is not too cold. At night I would say it creeps down to the mid 50s and high 70s during the day. It had also started to rain every afternoon, hence the “rainy season”. It is currently “summer” here because we are in the Southern Hemisphere, but come June and July, I am told, my site will have snow in the morning. Talk about Christmas in July!
This morning I went for a run and was stopped by about 10 people expressing their sympathy because they thought I was running because I had to, until I explained I was exercising. One Bibi (older women), after hearing my explanation, put down the hoe she was carrying on her head and preceded to run and do jumping jacks. I was absolutely floored and thought she might lose all of her limbs or I would have to do CPR on her. In the late morning the secretary to the Mkuu came to tell me that I was needed by the Mkuu for our unscheduled trip (not surprising) to Tukuyu to meet the heads of education in the region. After a few brief meetings, I ventured out on my own to find lunch, chips mayai, basically deep-fried potatoes baked into an omelet ( Jordo you have to try this! I think you would really like it) and a few items, while my Mkuu waited in the longest bank line I have ever seen.
So far the first few days at site have been relatively uneventful. I have speaking as much Swahili as I possibly can and venturing out into my community as much as possible. I am looking forward to going back into Mbeya this weekend for a tour and to see how everyone else is faring in his or her village. Before I forget, I am now cooking for myself! So far only rice, potatoes and veggies, but I hope to gain some confidence and visit the butcher for steaki at some point this week.
As always, I hope things are going well back in the good ole US of A, everyone had a great Thanksgiving and no one was trampled at Walmart on black Friday. As promised I have updated my address:
Carly Traub, PCV
(Third Hut on the Left)
Isongole Secondary School
PO BOX 222
Tukuyu, Mbeya, Tanzania
Not sure what my plans for Christmas are here. We are allowed to travel for either Christmas or new years, so we will see what emerges...
Miss you all. All my love from TZ!